Monday, July 16, 2012

The 18.8 Mile Day (30.2 KM)

Today my new gal pal and I embarked on a walking frenzy like no other. We spent the entire day on foot, me a bit more crazy than her but madness none the less. We set off to explore all of our favorites of Paris, each in small but effectively sufficient doses. It only took 18.8 miles (30.2 km) and 14 stops:  5 restaurants, 4 bars, 2 sweet treat spots,1 park and 1 firehouse and 1 national landmark. All this in honor of  Bastille Day aka French National day, celebrated every year on the 14th of July. How you ask can you fit this all in one day???....



La Maison Angelina

Starting off with a bang, we ventured to Angelina’s for the legendary hot chocolate and pastries. A wildly famous tea salon open since 1903 and made famous by the likes of Audrey Hephurn and Coco Chanel. They are well known for their decadent hot chocolate. I surmised it in Season 1’s blog as a cross between a diabetic coma and an orgasm. The hot chocolate is in fact a cup of melted semi-sweet chocolate with heavy cream on the side. This time I opted for the white chocolate which was surprisingly less intense and perfectly portioned with crème to make it a lighter delight. Paired with a Pain aux raisins cannelle et oranges aka cinnamon, orange, raisin croissant like cinnamon bun it was bliss. My friend went full throttle with the milk chocolate and while she tried to keep a straight face, I could see the jittery flinches of distress setting in towards the end. A lady will never let a chocolate win!


226 Rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris 


Legrand Filles et Fils

The only possible way to follow-up a chocolate and pastry indulgence like Angelina’s is with champagne. Although, there is never a bad time for champagne and there is no better place to class it up than in a gorgeous covered courtyard like Legrand Filles et Fils. It’s a wine shop, tasting room and restaurant that will make you want to be a better person. We stopped in to enjoy. May I recommend the best Rose Champagne I’ve ever tasted, Champagne Oeil de Perdrix. It’s one of the lightest rose’s I’ve had with a grapefruit twist that is mind blowing. The perfect dance between sweet and dry.

1 rue Banque
75002 Paris

Restaurant Le Voltaire
We then head south of the Seine to try out a place recommended by the blogging universe, Restaurant Le Voltaire. Promised to be a tradional French cuisine. No such luck today, it was closed for Bastille. Another  day.

27 Quai Voltaire
75007 Paris

Chez L'Ami Jean

Then to another trending spot, Chez L'Ami Jean. We approach the waiter and ask for the menu. He hands us a business card. We ask for the food menu and he nearly chuckles explaining that there is a 10 day wait for dinner reservations. Mind you the place was packed at 3 o’clock. So you have to wait 10 days to dine at 3? That’s right.

27 Rue Malar,
75007 Paris 

Brasserie Balzar
 Good thing we have backup! A traditional Parisian Brasserie open since 1886 and up to World War II it refused to serve unescorted women. The service was great and while the onion soup was better than most, there was something about the ambiance that left me at 3 stars. You can hear the loud clamoring from the kitchen, the decor is old and drab, and there is construction on the exterior. Everything is overpriced. Seems like a place taking advantage of their fame to stay subpar.

49 rue Ecoles
75005 Paris

The Long Hop

My pal Diana had been given direct orders that when in Paris to meet a bar man named Killian. So we did, he was great and we rested up in this Irish like pub for a beer. Surrounded by young French boys. Note: Irish pubs have the cutest boys. This place is in a great local and a perfect after work relaxed hangout.

27 Rue Frédéric Sauton
75005 Paris 

Berthillon Glacier
The most famous ice cream spot in France and located on a small island in the center of Paris, il Saint Louis. The servings are the size of a lychee fruit so don’t come hungry. The salted Caramel was top notch!

31 rue St Louis en l'ile
75004 Paris

Candelaria 
 Well known to be one of my favorites. It’s an inconspicuous taco bar in the front and trendy lounge in the back. Stopped in, met some American’s enjoyed the swanky scene and the top notch cocktails and fled like bandits into the night. We’ve got 10 more miles to walk ;)


52 rue de Saintonge
75003 Paris





Jacques Genin


Ubber posh Caramel, Chocolate factory and tea lounge. World famous and Jaques Genin himself comes in every morning to make them, so they are never more than a few hours old. A single caramel will run you about $2 but it buttery richness is like nothing else. The passion fruit mango one will help you understand.

133 rue de Turenne
75003 Paris
  
Champ de Mars
 Now to celebrate Bastille day with the big boys. A firework and light show from your wildest dreams with disco party sing alongs. That’s right! This year’s Eiffel Tower party was disco themed and apparently the frenchies know way more about that than us at home! They knew the words to songs I hadn’t even heard of even though they were all from the good ol’ US of A. There was even a ginormous disco ball hanging from the center of the Eiffel Tower.

2 Allée Adrienne Lecouvreur
75007 Paris





Sapuers Pompiers (Firehouse)

Every year on Bastille Day the firehouses turn in to huge parties. DJ's, dancing, drinks, etc. This is no 4th of July like block party with hot dogs and cake. This is all out, open til 4 am dance til you drop celebration. Unfortunately, only as many people as can fit in the firehouse square are allowed and although every little neighborhood has one it's obviously not enough room to meet the demanding crowds. There was no less than 400 people waiting in the line for this one and they were at capacity. They still waited, drinks in hand (that's legal here).

11 Rue du Vieux Colombier
75006 Paris

Les Etages

 Since that didn't work out, we headed to the first busy place we could find. I recalled after I had sat down that I had been there once before and experience a crappy sugery drink, but we'd already ordered. This one was no different but we were happy to sit and enjoy the people watching and the company of a nice Swiss Banker. 

5 rue Buci
75006 Paris



Café L'Etincelle

Capped it up with a stop at my favorite late night spot only to shatter my dreams. This was always my sure fire onion soup spot. Failed! They increased the price from 9.50 euro to 11.50 euro, decreased the portion, half the cheese, burnt the top and the service stunk! Crying shame. They get one more chance.

42 Bis Rue Rivoli
75004 Paris


Place de la Bastille
 
As romantic as poetry, the night ended at Bastille square. The very place where back in 1789 on July 14th, crowds stormed the Bastille fortress to mark this day forever in history. Today, it was the closest place to hunt for a taxi. No such luck! Welcome to Paris, the land of taxi drout. After 45 minutes, I took a deep breath and walked all 3.1 miles (5 km) home. That .1 was the death of me. 4am, tired, pissed at the world for the one moment I needed transport and fed up of an hours worth of endless man advances. At 4 am everyone woman on the street is the most beautiful woman a man's seen. But I guess that's why we never do this under normal circumstances. Never be too far from home at 4am unless you are prepared for the consequences.

So there you have it 18.8 miles in the heart of Paris! And I'd do it all over again.

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